• Stephanie

No Face Shoulder Bag Pattern

Updated: Jul 20

Pro-tip: Don't take the gold.


As I sink further and further into my addiction to the tapestry crochet technique, I keep discovering new possibilities and images I can recreate through this medium.


I am a huge fan of Hayao Miyazaki and am truly envious of his imagination and creativity. It's no exaggeration to say there's nothing quite like Spirited Away. If you haven't seen it, please check it out (but don't show it to your young children! It'll freak them out)


So for my latest pattern, I have a treat for all you Ghibli fans out there - No Face Shoulder Bag :)




N.B: Writing my patterns can be quite time consuming and I do my best to make sure they are clear, coherent and easy to follow. Since I provide them for free, I would appreciate it if you could please follow me on Instagram @slipstitch_hollow or on Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/slipstitchhollow.Or, you can sign up to my mailing list! By following me through these platforms, you will receive all updates about new patterns, items for sale, art installations and my undying gratitude! :)


You will need:

  • A 7mm crochet hook

  • Chunky weight yarn (5) in Black, White, and Purple


Some information before we begin:

  • The bag measures at 14 inches long and 10 inches wide

  • In order to make this bag, you will need to know how to tapestry crochet in back loops only. There is a fantastic video tutorial via ChabePatterns explaining how to do both here:


  • In the rows that include tapestry crochet, They will go as follows (for example):

Row 10: W: Chain 1, (13), B: (4), W: (4), B: (4), W: (17), slip stitch to the first sc to join.

Each colour used for the row is abbreviated to a letter, in this example there are only two - W: White, and B: Black.

So in this example, the first 13 single crochets would be in White, then followed by 4 in Black, then 4 in White, then another 4 in Black, then the remaining 17 in White.

( I have listed all the abbreviations on the pattern below)

You will need to change to your new colour on the last stitch of the previous colour. So for example, the first 13 stitches in this example row are White, so you will need to change to Black on the 13th stitch. The stitch itself will be White, but you will have switched to Black for the next 4 stitches

  • Sometimes you will have to change from one colour to another for ONLY ONE STITCH. For example, 14 sc in Black, change to White, 1sc in white, change back to Black. This can get a little fiddly, but be patient! Here is an image you can use as a reference as you make your bag:



  • As we crochet No Face, we will be starting from his chin moving up to the top of his face, or No-Face (haha) ;)

  • With the exceptions of the first few rows, the entire pattern will be single crochets in BACK LOOPS ONLY. Single crochet in back loops creates the pixelated affect we are aiming for. I have had people ask me if it is possible to crochet my tapestry patterns in both loops (i.e. how one would usually crochet), and the short answer is, yes, you absolutely can, I can't stop you! But the end result is an odd-looking, misshapen image. Therefore I highly, highly recommend you make this bag working in back loops only, and try practising smaller projects to get the hang of it.

  • In this pattern, Chain 1 DOES NOT COUNT AS A SINGLE CROCHET. Therefore, the first stitch is worked into the same stitch as the join.


Let's get crocheting!


BAG:


With black, Chain 28.


Row 1: From the second chain from your hook, make 1sc in each chain until you reach the final one. Once you have reached the final chain, make 3sc in that chain.


Now, instead of turning your work, we will continue working on the OTHER SIDE of the chain, going back the way we came. Work each remaining stitch in the back loop of the foundation chain.


This creates the bottom of the bag. So as you work back, make 1sc in each chain until you reach the end. Once you have reached the end, make 2sc in the last chain (this should be where you made your first sc at the beginning of the row), then slip stitch to join to the first sc.


You should have a total of 56 single crochets. At each end of the foundation row there should be 3 single crochets. These are the corners of your bag. Then, in between those corners, there should be 25sc on each side.


Row 2: Chain 1, (IN BACK LOOPS ONLY) 1sc in each stitch around. Slip stitch to the first sc to join. (56sc)


Now, we will begin to incorporate white. All the colours will be abbreviated as follows:


B - Black

W - White

P - Purple


Purple won't start until row 11, so for now you only need to switch between 2 yarns on your hook :)


Row 3: Chain 1, B: (11) W: (5), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 4: Chain 1, B: (9), W: (9), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 5: Chain 1, B: (8), W: (11), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.

Row 6: Chain 1, B: ( 7), W: (5), B: (3), W: (5), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 7: Chain 1, B: (6), W: (15), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 8: Chain 1, B: (6), W: (5), B: (5), W: (5), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 9: Chain 1, B: (5), W: (5) B: (7), W: (5), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 10: Chain 1, B: (5), W: (17), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Now is when we will start to incorporate purple.


Row 11: Chain 1, B: (4), W: (5), P: (1), W: (7), P: (1), W: (5), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 12 & 13: Chain 1, B: (4), W: (4), P: (2), W: (7), P: (2), W: (4), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 14 - 16: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (4), P: (3), W: (7), P: (3), W: (4), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


From here we won't need purple again until row 24, so you can cut your purple yarn.


Row 17: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (21), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 18: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (3), B: (4), W: (7), B: (4), W: (3) B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 19: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (21), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 20: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (3), B: (4), W: (7), B: (4), W: (3), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 21: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (2), B: (6), W: (5), B: (6), W: (2), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 22: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (3), B: (4), W: (7), B: (4), W: (3), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 23: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (21), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.

Row 24: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (4), P: (2), W: (9), P: (2), W: (4), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 25: Chain 1, B: (3), W: (4), P: (3), W: (7), P: (3), W: (4), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 26: Chain 1, B: (4), W: (3), P: (3), W: (7), P: (3), W: (3), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 27 & 28: Chain 1, B: (4), W: (4), P: (2), W: (7), P: (2), W: (4), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 29: Chain 1, B: (5), W: (4), P: (1), W: (7), P: (1), W: (4), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 30: Chain 1, B: (6), W: (15), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 31: Chain 1, B: (7), W: (13), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 32: Chain 1, B: (9) W: (9), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 33: Chain 1, B: (11), W: (5), B: the remaining stitches in the row, slip stitch to the first sc to join.


Row 34: With Black, 1sc in each stitch around, slip stitch to first sc to join. Fasten off, weave in ends.


STRAP:


The strap is super easy to make!


Using black, chain 7.


Row 1: Now starting from the second chain from your hook, work back along the chain, making 1sc in each chain. You should have 6sc. Chain 1 and turn.


Row 2: Make 1sc in each stitch. Chain 1 and turn.


Repeat row 2 until you have the length you desire. Fasten off, leaving a long tail to sew to the bag.


IF YOU WOULD LIKE A WIDER STRAP: make your starting chain longer (e.g: chain 8 or 9 or even 10).

If your strap is going to be very long, (Or - you plan to use this bag very often) then you might want to make it wider as to ensure it will be more sturdy. Keep in mind it will stretch over time, thus causing the bag to sag and hang lower than when it was first made.





Thank you so much for visiting my blog and trying out this pattern! I hope you enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed designing and making it! If anyone has any suggestions or critiques, I'd greatly appreciate your (constructive) feedback! You can either leave a comment below, send me a message through this website or an email! You can also reach me through instagram or facebook (I have provided the links at the top if this page).


If you'd like to help me out further, please consider sharing this pattern through facebook, or you can simply click the little heart at the bottom of the page to show your love! That would help me out a lot!


If you do make a bag, please share it online and credit Slipstitch Hollow & provide a link to www.slipstitchhollow.com or my Instagram @ slipstitch_hollow. I'd love to see your work!


No Face is copyright Ghibli. I own NOTHING. Do NOT sell the pattern, or alter it to claim it as your own.


Happy Crocheting!


:)

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