• Stephanie

My Beloved Beanie Pattern

Updated: Apr 6, 2019


Hello everyone and Happy Saturday! :) I hope everyone is having an amazing week! I have been super busy, working two jobs at the moment (sometimes 12 hours a day!) but I still manage to make time for crocheting, if you can believe it.


A few weeks back, I met up with some fellow crafters for a knit/crochet/chew-the-fat session and decided I wanted to try more tapestry crochet. I had seen tapestry crochet in combination with front post double crochets and though I'd try it. I aimed for an easier design and figured hearts would work. After a fair amount of frogging, advice from my crafting friends and a LOT of patience, My Beloved Beanie was created!


And now, here is the pattern for you lovelies! As you can see, it was a labour of love ;)


N.B: Writing my patterns can be quite time consuming and I do my best to make sure they are clear, coherent and easy to follow. Since I provide them for free, I would appreciate it if you could please follow me on Instagram @slipstitch_hollow or on Facebook at: https://www.facebook.com/slipstitchhollow.

Or, you can sign up to my mailing list! By following me through these platforms, you will receive all updates about new patterns, items for sale, art installations and my undying gratitude! :)


You will need:


  • A 5.5mm crochet hook

  • Worsted weight yarn in 2 or more colours - I used white for the hearts and Caron Big Cakes in Cornucopia for the remainder of the beanie

  • Patience (optional, but recommended)

Abbreviations:


dc - double crochet

fpdc - front post double crochet

fpdc2tog - front post double crochet 2 together


For the yarn:


Background Colour - BC

Heart Colour - HC



Before we begin:


#1 This pattern is ONE SIZE ONLY: adult. This beanie will fit most heads and does have a bit of stretch in it so it should be fairly accommodating. (When not worn, it measures at 22 inches around, and it stretches wider than that.)


IF your head is larger than the average noggin, you can use a larger hook (I would suggest a 6.5mm [K]) with chunkier yarn (5).


#2: The images of the beanie I have made show that there are four "background" colours - a green brim, followed by approximately 10 rows of orange, then 9 or so rows of grey, then the remainder in navy blue. THIS IS PURELY COINCIDENTAL and the result of using a variegated yarn, and I love how it turned out!



If you would prefer one solid colour, no problem! Or you can change colours every single row, it's up to you! Get creative :) Keep in mind, the more colours you decide to have, the fiddlier it will be to change between yarns. SO just remember: more yarn = more challenges.


Also, more yarn = more happiness.


As mentioned in the abbreviations above, the yarns will be referred to as Background Colour (BC) and Heart Colour (HC)


#3: When starting this pattern, we will be using the foundation double crochet.


If you are unfamiliar with the foundation double crochet, you can follow this video tutorial via Gleeful Things:


(OR, alternatively you can chain the foundation, slipstitch to join, and then double crochet in each chain around.)


#4: For this pattern, you will need to know how to do the Front Post Double Crochet.


I have provided a video tutorial on how to make the Front post double crochet (fpdc) via Fiber Flux:


NOTE: When making the front post double crochet stitch, it is typically followed by the back post double crochet. That is NOT the case in this pattern. After the foundation row, the entire beanie will be made using only the front post double crochet.


#5 : On changing yarns/Tapestry Crochet:


To make the hearts in the beanie pattern, we will be using tapestry crochet - or in other words, we will be interchanging between yarns as we work. I'll do my best to explain how to change yarns on the front post double crochet stitch! Please refer to the photos below.


To begin, we start the stitch as we would any other: yarn over...


Then, insert you hook around the stitch,


Yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops in total on your hook, just like a regular double crochet)


Yarn over, and pull through two...

Here is the half completed stitch.

Here is where we will switch yarn on the stitch. To complete the stitch, we will grab the Heart Colour yarn (HC), in this example, the white:


Instead of completing the stitch with the grey, we are going to drop the grey yarn and pull the white through the last two loops:

The completed stitch.

And that is how you change yarns! From here, we work with the white until the pattern tells us to switch back to the background colour (BC). In the row which starts to incorporate the hearts, you will see it is only one stitch of the heart colour in between seven stitches of background colour. As such, it might be a bit fiddly at first, as you will need to change back to the background colour in the very next stitch after you just switched to the heart colour.


Here is a progression of the heart:


(I know it might look a bit odd, but keep going and don't worry, I promise it'll turn out great!)


The completed heart


#6: This beanie is imperfect and that's what makes it beautiful! And by imperfect, I am referring to this:

Dat seam...

This is the back of the beanie. Rather than have the hearts sat right on top of one another, I chose to have the second row sit in between the hearts beneath them. What you see here at the back is the result. The first row of hearts has eight, the second only has seven. Rather than attempt to make an eighth heart on the second row, I chose to continue crocheting with the BC to the end of the row (I decided against adding the extra challenge of tapestry-front-post-double-crochet-across-joining-a-new-row, haha).


IF YOU LIKE SYMMETRY and would prefer two rows of eight hearts sat perfectly on top of each other, don't worry! All you need to do is this: once you have completed row 8, repeat rows 2 to 8 again (BUT - when completing row 8 for the second time - SKIP THE LAST STITCH, and slipstitch to the first dc to join. This is VITAL!!), then jump to row 16 in the pattern instructions to start decreasing and closing up the beanie!


Also, here is what the inside of the beanie looks like:


This is what tapestry crochet looks like from the other side! Be careful with your tension, and try not too make it too tight!


#7 When decreasing the beanie, we will be crocheting 2 fpdc together. It is almost identical to how we would crochet 2 double crochets together, the only difference that we will still be crocheting them as front post double crochets. So the decrease will go as follows:


Yarn over, insert hook around the fpdc (or post) from the previous row, yarn over and draw up a loop (three loops in total on your hook), yarn over and pull through two - Now yarn over and insert your hook around the SECOND fpdc/post, yarn over and draw up a loop (four loops in total on your hook), yarn over and pull through two (three loops remain on your hook), yarn over and pull through all three.


I hope that made sense.


Now with that all out of the way, let's get crocheting! :)


To begin:


Make a double crochet foundation of 74. If you are unsure of to make the foundation chain, you can alternatively chain a length of 74, slipstitch to join, then make a dc in each chain.


Row 1: Chain 2 (does not count as dc),1fpdc in the same stitch and each stitch around. Slipstitch to join to the first dc. (74fpdc)


Row 2: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next three stitches. As you complete the third fpdc, change your yarn to your Heart Colour (which will be known henceforth as HC). 1fpdc in the next stitch, change your yarn back to the Background Colour (BC). *1fpdc in the next 7 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change back to BC.* Repeat ** 8 times. 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches. Slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)





Row 3: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next 2 stitches, change yarn to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change yarn to BC, *1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to BC* repeat** 8 times. 1fpdc in the next 4 stitches, slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)





Row 4: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next, change yarn to HC, 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, change yarn to BC, *1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, change to BC* repeat** 8 times. 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)





Row 5: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch, change yarn to HC, 1fpdc in the next 7 stitches, change yarn to BC, *1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 7 stitches, change to BC* repeat** 8 times. 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)





Row 6: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch, change yarn to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change yarn to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to BC, *1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change yarn to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to BC* repeat** 7 times. 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)





Row 7: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1 fpdc in the same stitch and the next, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC, *1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC* repeat ** 7 times. 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, slipstitch to the first dc to join. (74fpdc)





Row 8: Chain 2 (does not count as dc),1fpdc in the same stitch and each stitch around. Slipstitch to join to the first dc. (74fpdc)


JUST A REMINDER: to those who would prefer to have two rows of eight hearts sat directly on top of each other, here is where you would jump back to row 2 and complete rows 2 to 8 for a second time, BUT - when completing row 8 - SKIP THE LAST STITCH, and slipstitch to the first dc to join. This is VITAL. (73fpdc). Once you are done, please jump forward to row 16.


Row 9: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next 7 stitches. As you complete the seventh fpdc, change your yarn to your Heart Colour (HC) . 1fpdc in the next stitch, change your yarn back to the Background Colour (BC). *1fpdc in the next 7 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change back to BC.* Repeat ** 6 times. 1fpdc in the next 9 stitches. Slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)



Row 9


Row 10: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next 6 stitches, change to (HC) . 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to BC. *1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change back to BC.* Repeat ** 6 times. 1fpdc in the next 8 stitches. Slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)


Row 11: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next 5 stitches, change to (HC) . 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, change to BC. *1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, change back to BC.* Repeat ** 6 times. 1fpdc in the next 7 stitches. Slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)


Row 12: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next 4 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 7 stitches, change yarn to BC, *1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 7 stitches, change to BC* repeat** 6 times. 1fpdc in the next 6 stitches, slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)


Row 13: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1fpdc in the same stitch and the next 4 stitches, change yarn to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change yarn to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to BC, *1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change yarn to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to BC* repeat** 6 times. 1fpdc in the next 6 stitches, slipstitch to the first fpdc to join. (74fpdc)


Row 14: Chain 2 (does not count as dc) 1 fpdc in the same stitch and the next 5 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC, *1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC, 1fpdc in the next stitch, change to HC, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, change to BC* repeat ** 6 times. 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, SKIP THE LAST STITCH, and slipstitch to the first dc to join. (73fpdc)


Row 15: Chain 2 (does not count as dc),1fpdc in the same stitch and each stitch around. Slipstitch to join to the first dc.


End of row 15

At this point, if you'd rather have a headband/earwarmer instead of a beanie you can simply fasten off, as I found this was quite becoming and was seriously considering finishing the project here! Haha. However, if you're determined to have a beanie, then let's keep crocheting!


BUT, BEFORE WE CONTINUE: Decreasing with fpdc can be a little tricky. What you need to watch out for is, as you are crocheting, when you reach a fpdc decrease in the previous row, make sure you wrap your hook around the entire decrease, i.e. both posts crocheted together. I made the mistake of thinking they were separate stitches and had to frog quite a bit of work to rectify it.


Row 16: *fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 9 stitches*, repeat ** 6 times, THEN, dc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, slipstitch to the first dc to join (66fpdc)


Row 17: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 9 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join (60fpdc) Row 18: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 8 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join (54fpdc)

Row 19: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 7 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join (48fpdc)

Row 20: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 6 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join (42fpdc)

Row 21: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 5 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join (36fpdc)

Row 22: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 4 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join (30fpdc)

Row 23: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 3 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join (24fpdc)

Row 24: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next 2 stitches, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join. (18fpdc)

Row 25: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, 1fpdc in the next stitch, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join. (12fpdc)

Row 26: Chain 2, fpdc2tog, repeat around (6 times), slipstitch to the first dc to join. Fasten off, weave in ends OR leave a long tail to sew the hole shut (although it should be very small, so it's not necessary)


Aaaaaand you're done! A gorgeous beanie exploding with love that'll keep your head snuggly warm and you the envy of all your friends, gazing at it lovingly, thinking: "I wish I had one!"



Thank you so much for visiting my blog and trying out this pattern! I hope you enjoyed it as much as I enjoyed designing and making it! It took a looooong time to write up the pattern, so if anyone has any suggestions or critiques, I'd greatly appreciate your (constructive) feedback! You can either leave a comment below, send me a message through this website or an email! You can also reach me through instagram or facebook (I have provided the links at the top if this page).


If you'd like to help me out further, please consider sharing this pattern through facebook, or you can simply click the little heart at the bottom of the page to show your love! That would help me out a lot!




If you do make a beanie, please share it online and credit Slipstitch Hollow & provide a link to www.slipstitchhollow.com or my Instagram @ slipstitch_hollow. I'd love to see your work!


You may NOT sell the pattern, repost it online, or alter it to claim it as your own.



Happy Crocheting!


Stephanie xxx

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